Vol. XXVI · No. 04 • Workshop Almanac
— The Everyday Handyman —
Est. MMXIX
Vol. XXVI · No. 04 • Workshop Almanac
Est. MMXIX
Gas, battery, or corded? The right chainsaw depends on what you cut and how often. This guide covers bar length, engine size, chain pitch, and gauge. We flag the safety features that truly matter. A saw is a tool with teeth, so respect it. The right tool makes short work of a big job. Pick the right one for pruning, storm cleanup, limbing, or firewood. Do not over-buy. Do not under-buy either. Match the saw to the job.
§ II — Reader’s Manual
A chainsaw is the one yard tool that punishes a wrong pick. Too little power bogs and pinches. Too much is heavy and unsafe in casual hands. Why fight your own tool? Think of it like a horse. The wrong size fights you all day. Here are the six things we weigh before we recommend any saw.
Gas saws bring the most muscle for felling and firewood. No cord, long runtime. The trade-off is noise, fumes, and two-stroke upkeep. Battery saws start with one pull of a trigger. They run quiet and shine at pruning and cleanup. Corded electric is the lightest, cheapest pick for light work near an outlet. Choose the source that fits your yard first.
A 14 to 16-inch bar handles pruning and limbing. Sixteen to twenty inches covers most firewood. Twenty inches and up is for felling big trees. Here is the rule of thumb. The bar should be two inches longer than your widest log. A longer bar also needs more power and a steadier grip.
Gas saws are rated in cc. Figure 30 to 40cc for homeowners. Pro felling wants 50 to 60cc. Battery saws run 40V to 80V. Higher voltage means faster cuts and less bogging in hardwood. Buy enough power for your thickest, hardest wood. Not your thinnest branch.
Chains come in different pitch and gauge. Homeowner saws often use .050 gauge. You also choose low-kickback safety chains or aggressive full-chisel ones. Match new chains to your bar. Keep them sharp with the right file. A sharp small saw will outcut a dull big one every time.
Kickback causes most chainsaw injuries. Look for a chain brake and a low-kickback bar and chain. Add a front hand guard and a throttle lockout. Then gear up with chaps, gloves, and a face shield. No amount of power beats a working chain brake. Your hands are worth more than horsepower.
Gas saws want a fresh two-stroke mix and a clean air filter. Add a good spark plug and bar oil in the tank. Battery saws need charged packs and spares for long jobs. Budget for extra chains, bar oil, and fuel or batteries. Do it before the first storm hits, not after.
Read the guide. Then close the tab and walk away. Come back tomorrow with fresh eyes. The pick that still feels right after a good sleep is usually the one to buy. Sleep on it. Your wallet will thank you.
§ II — Specimen Pages
§ II — Specimen Pages
Every good pick also means saws we left off. Below are the ones we stopped recommending. It is not about one brand. These types rarely serve a homeowner well. A cheap saw can cost you a finger or a weekend. Why gamble on a tool with teeth? Skip these and buy a saw you can trust.
A disposable saw has a plastic bar nose. Good luck finding a chain for it. It bogs on anything thicker than a broom handle. For real limbs and firewood, buy a serviceable saw. Pick gas or high-voltage battery you can re-chain.
A 20-volt trimmer-grade saw drains and overheats fast. It pinches in a hardwood trunk. Match voltage and bar length to the wood. Do not ask a pruning saw to fell a tree. That is a recipe for trouble.
Someday the carburetor, fuel line, or clutch fails. An orphan brand leaves you stranded. Buy a saw with a dealer close by. Make sure bars, chains, and tune-up parts sit on a nearby shelf.
Never skip the chain brake to save a few bucks. It is the one safety feature you cannot do without. If a saw has no brake and no low-kickback chain, walk away. Your fingers will thank you.
A 60cc felling saw is heavy, loud, and risky for shrubs. Over-buying tires your arms and raises kickback. Size the saw to the job, not the daydream. Bigger is not always better here.
A flimsy pole-saw combo usually cuts poorly in both modes. A jack of all trades, master of none. A dedicated pole pruner and a real chainsaw cost about the same. And they actually work.
§ IV — Directory
One email, every Sunday. New tool reviews, the best tip of the week, and a single recommendation from the editors. No clutter.
