Vol. XXVI · No. 04 • Workshop Almanac
— The Everyday Handyman —
Est. MMXIX
Vol. XXVI · No. 04 • Workshop Almanac
Est. MMXIX
MIG, TIG, stick, or flux-core? The right welder depends on the metal, its thickness, and your skill. This guide covers welding processes, amperage, duty cycle, and voltage. We cover shielding gas too. A good welder joins metal like stitching cloth. Weld mild steel, stainless, or aluminum with strong, clean beads. Handle repairs, fabrication, or auto body work. Pick the welder that fits your projects, not the big amp number.
§ II — Reader’s Manual
Welders are sold on amperage and process names. Those mean little until you match them to your metal. Your garage power matters too. Buy the wrong process and every job fights you. Want strong beads or cold, weak ones? The process decides. Do not guess here. Here are the six things we weigh.
MIG wire-feed is the easiest to learn. It is fast for mild steel and fabrication. Flux-core MIG welds outdoors with no gas. TIG lays the cleanest beads for stainless and aluminum. But it has the steepest learning curve. Stick welding is rugged, cheap, and great for thick or dirty steel.
Output amperage sets how thick you weld in one pass. A rule of thumb is 30 amps per 1/32 inch of steel. Thin auto-body sheet needs fine low-amp control. Quarter-inch plate needs serious output. Buy for the thickest metal you join often. Leave a little headroom.
Duty cycle is minutes of welding out of ten. A 20% duty cycle at high amps means long waits. Big jobs punish a low duty cycle. Production and thick metal want a higher one. Occasional repairs can live with less. Match it to how long you actually weld.
Many welders run on standard 120V power for light work. Heavier machines need a 240V circuit. Dual-voltage welders give you the most flexibility. They move between a home garage and a shop. Check your outlets first. Do not buy amps you cannot power.
MIG with solid wire needs a shielding gas cylinder. C25 suits steel, pure argon suits aluminum. Flux-core wire shields itself for windy outdoor work. TIG needs argon and filler rod. Factor in gas, regulators, and consumables. The real price is more than the machine.
Welding demands an auto-darkening helmet and flame-resistant gear. Add good gloves, a jacket, and ventilation. Budget for the gear, not just the machine. Choose a brand with parts and a solid warranty. The cheapest welder with no support is the costliest to own. Your eyes are not replaceable.
Read the guide. Then close the tab and walk away. Come back tomorrow with fresh eyes. The pick that still feels right after a good sleep is usually the one to buy. Sleep on it. Your wallet will thank you.
§ II — Specimen Pages
§ II — Specimen Pages
Every good pick also means welders we left off. Below are the ones we stopped recommending. It is not about one brand. These let you down at the bench. A weak welder leaves cold, brittle joints. Why trust your safety to a cheap arc? Skip these and weld with confidence.
A small 120V welder cannot weld thick plate well. It leaves cold, weak joints. Match amperage and voltage to the metal. Step up to 240V for heavy work. Power the job right.
A flux-core-only machine has no gas option. That limits you to rougher, spattery welds. Want clean steel welds? Buy a MIG that also runs gas. One trick is not enough.
A big amp number with a tiny duty cycle is a tease. You wait more than you weld. Read the duty cycle first. Do not trust the peak-amp headline. Numbers can lie.
Cheap TIG units skip the foot pedal. They add poor arc start and rare consumables. That makes a hard process even harder. Buy a TIG with real controls and support.
A fixed-shade hood makes you flip it up to see. That ruins your setup and your eyes. Skip the freebie helmet. Get a proper auto-darkening one. Protect your sight first.
An uncertified welder often has questionable wiring. No safety cert means shock and fire risk. Choose a machine with real certification. Look for thermal overload protection too. Your shop is worth it.
§ IV — Directory
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